More Southern Food

Kiss my grits The classic Southern comfort food stands up to lots of flavors
Wednesday, January 16, 2008BY NAN BAUER Ann Arbor News Bureau
As Southern as Georgia peaches, Scarlett O'Hara and all those crazy people in Faulkner novels, grits inspire strong reactions. People love or hate grits, one of those foods where the middle ground is relatively unoccupied.

Like cornmeal, grits are the meal that results from pounded dried corn hominy - corn processed in water with lime (the chemical, not the citrus) and wood ash, which makes the kernels shed their hulls and puff up to larger than normal, as well as take on a distinctive, subtle flavor. Once dried, the hominy gets pounded into a coarse meal, and you got you some grits.

The name is thought to be a Southernization of "groats,'' the old Anglo-Saxon word for a thick wheat pudding. All I know is that if you ask a Southerner for a single grit, the way my mother once did, be prepared to get what can only be described as "one of those looks.''

According to Southern food gurus the Lee Brothers, the best type of grits are stone-ground; the flavor is superior due to a higher concentration of corn oil. The downside is that this variety is highly perishable, lasting only about three weeks, and therefore only recommended for the grits aficionado. It is also worth noting that many grits lovers are perfectly happy using commercial-ground grits from the supermarket. Only you can decide the discernment level of your inner Alabamian.

The hash browns of Southern diners and truck stops, breakfast grits tends to be served on the sweet side. The recommended proportion is 1 part grits to four parts liquid, preferably half milk and half water (with whole milk naturally providing the richest flavor). Commercial grits can do with a tablespoon of sugar to make up for the missing sweetness of corn oil still present in the stone-ground version.

Boil your liquid over medium-high heat, add your grits and stir constantly until you have a thick soup consistency, then simmer for a while longer. A famous scene in "My Cousin Vinny'' puts the time at around 20 minutes, a good guess. But to avoid the constant stirring, you can also whisk them into a crock pot and let them slow cook overnight. In the morning, violà: perfect grits.

Of course, like so many bland foods, grits are truly amenable to all sorts of additions provided you're not a purist. They're a natural foil to smoky bacon and sharp cheddar. Substitute chicken or vegetable broth for the milk/water mix, cut down the sugar, add cumin and a dash of chili powder, and top your finished grits with salsa cruda and grated pepper Jack cheese.

For the intrepid cook, they make superb soufflés. They make a great oatmeal replacement in meatloaf, and the biscuit recipe that follows features what has recently become something of a hot ticket, the combination of grits and shrimp.

Above all, accept the fact that some folks have deep grits antipathy, and they will never be won over no matter how you gussy the things up. For the grits lover, this can only be good news. More for you!

Roasted Garlic and Rosemary Grits Soufflé

Adapted from "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-be Southerners'' by Matt Lee and Ted Lee, W. W. Norton and Bros., 2006. Zingerman's sells Anson Mills stone-ground grits, but you can substitute quicker cooking grits such as Bob's Red Mill. Reduce cooking time according to package directions and skip the first step.

1/2 cup stone-ground grits

1/2 cup half and half

3 cups water

11/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

6 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 egg yolks

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

6 egg whites

3 tablespoons fine grated pecorino Romano

1. Place the grits in a small bowl; fill it with water. Stir gently, and, when grits settle, pour off any chaff floating on the surface and drain the grits.

2. Boil the next 2 ingredients and one teaspoon of salt in a 2 quart saucepan; add grits, reduce heat to medium. Stir constantly 8 minutes, reduce heat to low, simmer for about 25 minutes, stirring every 2 or 3 minutes, until they are creamy and soft.

3. Brush the garlic with olive oil and broil until skin blackens. Let cool, then remove

skin and mash with the rest of the salt.

4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks until creamy yellow. Slowly add 1 cup of grits, whisking constantly. When the mixture is smooth and a sunny pale yellow, add it to the pan with the remaining grits, whisking thoroughly, add the garlic puree, rosemary and pepper.

5. Beat the egg whites in a large bowl to stiff peaks. Fold them gently into the grits mix, until just combined.

6. Pour the mixture into 6 greased ramekins. Tie a strip of buttered parchment around the collar of each dish with twine; it should extend 3 inches. Sprinkle each soufflé with cheese. Bake on the middle rack for 35 minutes; soufflés will rise and be barely brown on top.

7. Remove from the oven and serve immediately; let guests remove their own parchment.

Shrimp and Grits Biscuits

Adapted from Southern Living Magazine, 2002.

11/3 cups chicken broth

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup quick-cooking grits, uncooked

1 tablespoon butter

1/8 teaspoon pepper

3/4 cup milk

3 cups all-purpose baking mix

11/2 pounds large, cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese

1 green onion, chopped

1/2 teaspoon hot sauce

1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Garnishes: sliced green onion, barbecue sauce

1. Bring chicken broth and salt to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat; add grits, and cook, stirring often, 5 minutes or until thickened. Add butter and pepper, stirring until butter melts. Remove from heat, and let cool 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Whisk milk into cooled grits; stir in baking mix until a soft dough forms. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Pat dough to a 1/2-inch thickness, and cut with a 2-inch round cutter. Place biscuits on lightly greased baking sheets. Bake at 425 degrees for 10 minutes or until biscuits are lightly browned.

3. Cut 24 shrimp in half lengthwise, and set aside. Process cream cheese, next 4 ingredients, and remaining shrimp in a food processor until mixture is smooth, stopping to scrape down sides.

4. Split biscuits in half, and spread cut sides evenly with the shrimp purée, and top with remaining shrimp. Garnish, if desired. Makes 48 appetizer servings.